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Galerías de Antelope Canyon
Antelope Canyon is located 3 miles east of Page in north Arizona on Navajo Nation land – just outside the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area – close to AZ 98. It is the most visited slot canyon in the Southwest, partly because it is easily accessible, and also since it is extremely beautiful, with just the right combination of depth, width, rock color and ambient light; many others are deeper, narrower and longer, and some have rock that is even more colorful and sculptured, but here conditions are ideal.
Antelope Creek is a seasonal stream that flows into Lake Powell. Most of the watercourse is wide and sandy, but there are two sections of slot canyon near the lake (the Upper and Lower canyons), separated by several miles of flat terrain. Both may be approached from road AZ 98; the Upper canyon (also known as Corkscrew Canyon) is reached at the end of a very sandy 2-mile 4WD track south of the road near milepost 299, and it is this part that is usually visited. Lower Antelope Canyon is between AZ 98 and the lake; there is a short track northwards leading to a parking area from which guided tours departs.
Antelope Canyon has become the southwest’s most popular slot canyon. Thousands have now walked through its convoluted passages and images of it are now so wide spread that it really doesn’t belong under a heading of “hidden canyons” A secret spot known only to the locals and a few photographers, Antelope Canyon was thrust into the public eye by photographer Bruce Barnbaum who published directions to it in a book of his black and white photography. Soon other photographers were traveling there, taking groups in, and spreading the word. The Navajo soon realized there was money to be made and put up a gate in front of the entrance to the wash leading to the narrows and began to charge a fee to enter. Not to be outdone, the tour operators of nearby Page, Arizona began busing people back into the canyon and tacking on an additional charge for their services.
Years ago it was possible to spend the entire day in its convoluted passage without ever seeing another soul. It was so quiet you could hear your heart beating. Unfortunately those days are gone for Antelope Canyon. Today several photo tours came along (over 35 photographers with gear) and crowded the canyon, which narrows to only 3 feet in some areas. They scratched the delicate walls of the canyon with their tripods trying to get around other photographers. And then to my horror van after van came down the wash with hundreds of tourists and their screaming kids and video cameras. The good news about Antelope is they’ve made it very easy to get to. The bad news is when you get there you’ll be shoulder to shoulder with people who don’t give a damn about the spirit of these haunting places. The haunting silence of Antelope Canyon is gone. Please do not sign on with these tours, the leaders of them care only about how many people they can squeeze in and how much money they can make doing it.
See also the Antelope Canyon post on my blog.
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